Review: Hitchhikers B&B Hostel

Stayed at this hostel for 3 nights, there are goods as well as some bads. The staffs are very friendly, I must say, and for its price range, I shouldn't complain. My room is a single with shared bathroom, for US$18 a night. Its location is somewhere between the clifftop of the Pacific coast, and the center of Miraflores district, both within 10 mins of walk. It is close to a supermarkets and banks. There are lots of restaurants, trendy stores and other going-ons in the center area of Miraflores, sort of a middle class neighborhood, I suppose. I am actually glad that I didn't stay at Centro Lima, where seems to be even more choatic. But, if I decide to go back Lima again, I might choose to stay at Barranco, a much arty and quieter neighborhood, or some quieter street in Miraflores.

Apart from the price, friendly staffs, I also get free wi-fi, TV room with tons of DVD, and some games available if you are up for it, the airport pick up is also nice, remind you that my flight arrived at 4:30am, and they still come to pick me up at that hours. The hostel seems to be safe enough, so as the neighborhood. My room is spacious. However, the traffic noise is a big no no. Pretty much as early as 6:00am-7:00am, the traffic noise would start to screaming in. Maybe because my room is right next to the street, but I don't think the rooms in the main building can avoid that noise. In fact, I asked the two Dutch girls staying in the main building, they said they needed to use earplugs too. I guess that's one of the solution. There is definitely no way to sleep in the daytime. Actually there was one night I was kept awaken by a garbage pick up at 2am. The up side about those traffic noise, there is a bus to Centro Lima passing right by the hostel.

The shared bathroom is another thing I don't care for. There are 3 shared bathroom, but at peak hours (7:00am to 10:00am), there are usually a line to get in the bathroom, and hot water are all gone most of the times by your turn. Solution to this is to either take shower in the late afternoon or at night.

Overall, I would still recommend it to backpackers who pretty much spent most daytime outside, and youthful party animals (cause there are lots of bars and pubs around). But if you want some restful sleeps, no one to fight with bathroom when you need to go, or you want to relax when you are in, find hostels in other quieter neighborhood. In fact, Lima, in my impression, is such a blasting city, it is not a city for relaxation. It reminds me Bangkok, with a spanish touch.

Day 3 - Barranco, Lima

Today is like a rollercoaster. Start off with a very rough morning, but the afternoon to evening was getting better... First off, I was kept awaken by a garbage pick up truck at 2am in the morning, it seemed like forever before they would leave me alone. And then the traffic noise was already screaming in at 7am, so I did't sleep and woke up quite early. Thought I would take a shower before everyone, it was a naive thought, there was already a line. So, I waited, pee, went back to the room to get the towel and toiletry, found that I lost my spot already since someone already took over the bathroom. Finally my turn, no toilet paper, oh sweet, and I took another cold shower again. I was literally shaking my bones off. But I got the shower done quickly, went back to my room, groomy, waiting to chat with some friends in Hong Kong. Feel homesick, I am such a kiddo, the third day I am feeling homesick already. Friends kept me company till 11:30am, I still planned on going out today to see another part of Lima, a place called Barranco.

I got myself ready, again I asked the front desk lady where to take the bus, she told me at Canadian Embassy, I walked there no bus sign, there are 4 corners with 4 different directions, She mentioned south, where is south? So, I walked around and turned back, saw a guy standing at the door, so I tried to compose some broken Spanish to ask a question, "Donde estan las autobuses por Barranco?" (Where are the buses for Barranco) He didn't understand or he didn't hear me clearly, so I rephased, "autobuses por Barranco aqui? (Buses for Barranco here? at least that's what I thought I was saying). He understood, he asked another man, that man was very generous, he waited the bus for me and called them to stop and told me where I am going. So, another success with the bus, score 2.

Got to Barranco, quite a nice area with lots of colonial building, it's so much quieter, if I have known, I would pick a hostel that way, so I can get some sleep at nights. I picked up my camera to get some pictures, shoot, the SD card was left in the computer, I was like, all mad at myself for 2 seconds, then I realize, hold on a sec, I have my computer with me today, because I was planning to find a cafe to get online, just have an easy afternoon. So, I found a place to eat, walked around the area, I even walked all the way down to the rock beach, where some couples were making out, I took a picture of it. The area is not very big, but quite peaceful (in Lima standard). I was done with the sightseeing at 3pm already, and then I found a cafe where I can get online. Had a latte and chatted with a friend in Hong Kong again, I was on a headphone, but mic is actually on above my monitor, so I was like a crazy chinese man speaking string and string of chinese into the monitor. They must think I was nutcase or something. It was actually quite relaxing there. The afternoon was so much better already compared to the morning, again I successfully caught a bus back.

Paid my hostel bill, 3 nights is like 168 Soles (about US$54), the airport pick up and tomorrow taxi fee to the airport is like US$26. After this experience, I am considering how up one level, to find some better hostel with HOT WATER constantly and hopefully a private bath.

Dinner I have given myself a treat, and went to an italian restaurant and have some kind of a pasta with pesto sauce. It was ok. I have been eating the local food for lunch 3 days on a row, I started to carve for something western, but not McDonalds. Anyway, the dinner was like 22 Soles, I paid 3 Soles tip, it's equivalent to US$8.3, you go to a Chipoles and it can be more expensive than that. So, I am ok. Not everyone, but once in a while, I need some recharge.

Photos here: Day 3

Footnote: This morning I was feeling really low, to a point that I want to change my itinerary, just go to the few major must-see sites and drop the other side stuffs. But the afternoon turned out to be not too bad, I think maybe I am just in a culture shock and kind of experiencing some initial anxiety... hopefully it will be easier in Cuzco once I will start the spanish course. But, I am still considering to up my travel standard one level, meaning to stay at some slightly better hostel and maybe hire a guide here or there wherever needed. The cost will naturally increase, I need to redo the planning when I have more time in Cuzco. I will stay there for 3 and a half weeks.

Postcard Impossible!

I just found that to mail a postcard in Peru is EXTREMELY expensive, like US$4 for a postcard for most international destinations. I was like holy shit, I have never heard of such nonsense. Originally, I was planning to mail a lot of postcards whenever I travel, but now, sorry guys, I may have to wait until I get down to Chile to do more postcard sending. Interesting, when I walked around Miraflores yesterday, I couldn't find anywhere that sells postcard, not even a bookstore! I bet it's not the Peruvian fashion to send postcard?? I don't know. But today, I have finally found some near the main plaza in Centro Lima. So I got one of them, here it is, to you all. A postcard from Lima.

Day 2 - Centro Lima

Waken up around 8:30am, luckily, I brought my little fleece blanket, I can definitely use it at night. Although the bed is harder than what I am used to, I am ok with it, good for my back I suppose. The strange pillows gave me headache though. I went to the bathroom to take a shower, after 15 people must have used the shower before me, all the hot water was already gone. The water is cold even I turned only "hot water" switch. I finished it really quickly, must be one of the quickest showers I have ever taken. The hostel provides breakfast in the morning: un cafe con leche y pan (coffee with milk and bread with butter). I chatted with the same girl I talked to the first day, she is going to para-gliding today, and then will leave to Argentina tomorrow. There was also another guy at the table. He is from Chicago! Or he works in Chicago anyway, he's originally from Denver. I was like, you are kidding, I just came from Chicago as well, suddenly I felt like I know him for years. So we chatted a little bit, he is leaving to Cuzco today. Anyway, neither of them has taken the bus here in Lima, so they don't have any advice for me. (At least I don't feel so bad about not having the ball to catch a bus yesterday, it seems like not many travelers use the bus here.) However, the guy told me that the bus like vehicles I saw yesterday was actually the colectivo (the cheap taxi), they looks more like a minibus to me, be honest, I would never have called that a taxi. Anyway, it's good to get that clarifed.

ASked the staff at the front desk about the bus, how I may be able to distinguish which and which. This girl does not speak much english either, she just pointed out (on paper, with spanish and a few english words) that I should look for a bus with No. 73A, which in fact stop across from the hostel. Ok. that's easy. I stepped out and there it was, it was actually just coming at the corner. So we waved, the girl was by my side too, but I noticed there is no 73 in the front, just an A and Spanish words telling the places or something. But no time to ask, just jumped on the bus and off I go. It cost only 1.2 soles, like 40 cent in USD. I was looking at the street signs, trying to remember the bus route, suddenly it dawned on me that I didn't ask her how to get back. I figured that maybe I just walked across to the other sides, I would be get to find the same bus. Except that the vehicles on the road are quite choatic. It's not easy as you think. I also noticed that this is actually a "bus" bus I was taking, no colectivo. It does have bus stops, with the sign "Paradero", although like most Asian, South American also don't really follow the rules of the roads, the bus stops wherever people wants to get on or get off really. Still, it's good, I thought, I'm finding more signs. I was quite confident that I should be able to get back. (Let's see about that! Right?)

Something else happened on the bus, at some points, when the bus stopped, there were a bunch of sellers outside the windows selling stuffs. This man carried me a bunch of stationary, crossword books, and a lot string of wallets. How's neat?! Another woman holding a dishes of donut or something selling from cars to cars. At some points, the ticket guy (they are usually in pair, the bus driver and the ticket guy on a bus) let a man get the bus, selling stuffs or performing (singing, playing guitar) for money. Anything goes, I tell you. On my way to Centro, this guy was selling a sewing easy thingy, for putting a string into the hole of needle. It was made with some cheap plastic, quite colorful, like a toy. There were actually people buying it. Interesting. And on my way back, there was this guy playing guitar and singing too. He actually did really good, I tempted to give him some money, but probably he saw me holding a map on my hand, and didn't even bother to ask me for money. Good, so I saved a buck. (More about my return journey in a bit.)

Happy that I got to Centro Lima finally on bus, like I have accomplished my silly little goal of the day. I started to walk around the place, first went to main plaza areas, filled with policemen with guns blocking all sites. I was thinking what the hell is going on. The plaza was kind of quiet actually. Later in the afternoon, the police started to leave. Something must be up earlier. Anyway, I must have walked 4 hours or more, I went inside the main Cathedral, needed to pay 10 Soles to get in, equivalent to 3.5 US dollars. Took a good number of pictures in there. Had lunch at one of the restaurants near the plaza. Today's the appetizer - some kind of creamy potato with a quarter of an egg on top - not that good, but the 2nd course - a steamy stir-fly kind of chicken with tomoto and onion - which is a good pick. Again there was a woman with a karaoke machine on roller, singing for money. She was singing like a dead fish. Sorry. Definitely no money. By 4:30pm, I knew I better try to find a bus home, or it would get dark soon. I walked back to where I got off earlier, crossed to the other sides. Colectivos, buses flying by, I didn't see any 73 or A, but saw one colectivo with Miraflores on the front sign, so I waved, it stopped, I asked, "Miraflores?", he signaled me to get on, so I was in a sardine packed minibus, standing in the back, not sure if I was doing the right thing to get on. But I trusted my gut this time. It ought to bring me somewhere nearby the areas, if the guy let me in. And it did. Thanks god. Stopped by a Starbucks, had a latte. They don't have cream or milk on the side stand for you, you actually need to order a latte in order to have milk in your coffee. Whatever. Back to hostel. My 2nd day ended.

Dinner was a bit cheapy tonight, I bought a piece of chicken drumstick (leg), pulled out the meat, and sandwich it in a bun, with some banana chips. Speaking of that, I am getting kind of hungry now. But it's too late to eat anything, I better head to bed. Tomorrow, my last sightseeing day in Lima, not sure what I gonna do yet... probably head to another district to check things out. But I must return earlier, and start packing. Friday, needed to leave really early, like departing to the airport at 6:30am. So, I probably need to wake up at 5:45am.

Photos here: Day 2

Footnote: Overall, I feel better today than yesterday. Found a little satisfaction about taking the bus, but the language is still very difficult for me, it's definitely more difficult than I anticipated. Suddenly I realized how much I have relyed on english for years. I wonder if I have difficulty with the capital of Peru, then what about the few rural areas I am planning to visit, how am I gonna communicate with people and get around areas? And those long buses...18 hours. What am I gonna do? Driving me crazy to think about it now. But this is only the 2nd day, maybe it is too soon to say. Hopefully the Spanish lessons will help survive the next 2 months.

Day 1 - Miraflores in Lima, Peru

Finally I got my room around 11:00am, after chatted with a friend online, I was planning to sleep for 2 hours before going out, but my room is right next a busy street, the traffic noise is unbelievable. And not only that, it's very very weird, you know, those car alarms come on every 20-30 mins. So, once in a while, I hear this "Rite Of Spring" kind of sound all day long. Well, I didn't stay here all day really, but whenever I am in my room. At night, it is slightly better. Anyway, since I couldn't filter out the street noise this morning, I decided to get up, took a shower and walked around the neighborhood, despite my body was really begging for rest. Maybe 4 blocks from my hostel is the clifftop already, people are doing para-gliding, is that what it's called? There is also, rather surprising, a lighthouse near my hostel. Guess the guidebook can't never tell you everything. Took some pictures, and do a lot of walking. The neighborhood of my hostel, Miraflores, is probably a middle class neighborhood, some of the houses look very beautiful.

I walked to the center area of this neighborhood, with the buses, taxis, streaming in and out. They stopped pretty much wherever they want, yelling their destinations, grabbing people in, throwing people out . I just carried my tired body, continued to walk, took pictures whenever my finger got the calling. I think around 2pm, I started to feel hungry so I found this small restaurant behind the alley, there were a few women, and an obviously traveller eating there, they had this menu board standing up front in which all I recognize was the first one with pollo, some kind of dishes with chicken. Everything else was unrecognizable, for me anyway. The Señorita (waitress) tried to explain to me what this and that are, with her best effort I am sure. Oh this one, beef, sopa = soup. Soup with beef, ok, sounds good, so I took that. And also the chicken with rice too. I didn't realize it was like a set menu, so it had a drink, 1st course was the soup and the 2nd course was chicken with rice. They tasted ok, very strong favors all of them, a little too strong in my opinion, but I am happy that I didn't end up eating McDonalds or Burger King. There were two prices on the board, Soles 6.5 and 13 (equivalent to USD 2 and 4), I thought maybe when you do two courses and drink, it's like 13. When I was done, the bill handed to me was 6.5, that wasn't bad. And the lunch was huge too. According to Lonely Planet, the lunch is the main meal of the day, people usually eat very light dinner. It will probably take me a while to get accustomed to.

After lunch, it was only 2:30pm, still early, I didn't think the street noise would quiet down, so I just kept walking, I was tempted to hop on a bus to Centro Lima to see things. I waited and waited, looking at the buses streaming by, I felt really lost, which one to take. Based on the guidebook, I am supposed to look for a specific sign in the front but I didn't see anything I could recognize. Even Lonely Planet said the buses in Lima are rather chaotic. There is something called Colectivo, the cheap fixed price taxi, but I didn't know what they look. My last option is just regular taxi, which I need to bargain with them (like in China, come on people, use a meter), I hate bargain, especially when I am tired. So, my first day's adventure ended there, tiny little dingy bit disappointed at myself not having the balls to just hop on one of the buses. I know the worst case scenario is that I would have to take a taxi back the hostel. But still, I decided to go back to the hostel. By the time I got back, it's about 3:30 or 4:00pm, after writing an email, my body finally collapsed, and slept a good 3 hours. Since I left Chicago, I only slept 4 hours in total. Not counting the night before I was not sleeping much either. I need to catch up with some rest tonight.

See photos here: Day 1

Footnote: I am feeling more nervous than ever, not speaking Spanish might be a bigger obstacle than I anticipated. It makes me feel more alone. Anyhow, hopefully I will get by these next few days in Lima, and when I get to Cuzco, the Spanish class will help me to adapt this culture.

Señor Antonio

Before I talk about Antonio, the person who picked me up at the airport. I must add one more note about my Lima airport experience. The airport is very efficient, immigration staffs are friendly. As a Hong Kong citizen, I don't require a visa to visit Peru. But the Lonely Planet guidebook recommends people like me on a backpacking trip should request for a 90 days stamp, otherwise they would just give 30 days. The one thing the guidebook doesn't mention is how to say it. Instead of asking some flight attentants, I tried on my own first, combining parts from my Spanish phrasebook, I composed my first Spanish sentence, ¿Ma de un visa por noventa días? It probably has some mistakes, but he understood me. That's like Oh My God! It's like you are waiting for your 12 months old baby to call Pa-pa, except this time, you are the baby and you have said something people understand you. I get so much pleasures out of that, you have no idea. :)

Now back to the main character of this entry, his name is Antonio, he is the one who came to pick me up at the airport at 4:30am in the morning. The efficiency of the Peruvian immigration is impressive, although at 4am, I bet it would be efficient at any airport. I got my 90 days visiting stamp on my passport, picked up my backpack, exchanged some money, I know the official exchange rate should be around US$1 to 3 Soles. But the rate at the airport is like 1 to 2.81, no commission. I just exchanged US$50 for petty cash. Will see if I will get a better rate in town. Anyway, walked out of the baggage claim, we are required to walk pass some machine, I think it may be related to your body temperature or something, I am not sure really, but I got a green light. Off I went, walked out of the hallway, there he was, no need to search. Antonio was holding a sign with my name on it, and he recognized me right away, I bet asian man with a backpack at 4am in Lima airport is not a common scene. He signaled me to walk outside from my side. I went out, walked toward him, say Hola, shaked his hand. Inside I worried if he spoke any english, what was I gonna say during the ride...etc. At the same time, I have that adventurous mood kicked in after making my first Spanish sentence. I wanted to talk to people.

He was really friendly actually, straight as a hard wood floor, and shot away at me in a very macho way, where're you from? I told him I was a student in the US and originally from Hong Kong. I briefly told him what I will be doing in Peru, he even taught me some Spanish words already, although I really don't remember what it is, I only slept 1 hour for the past 24 hours. Anyway, during that 40 mins ride from the airport to the hostel named Hitchhikers B&B Backpackers Hostel, we talked a little and kept silence for a little, mainly I was observing what outside of the windows. The sun is getting ready to rise, there are actually some people running on the street, like morning exercise or something. Kind of interesting to see them running alongside the highway in 5am in the morning. Anyway, I can feel that Antonio is a very friendly person, just by the way he smiled and the way he wanted to help...etc. I wonder if I would bump into more of this kind of people.

Got to the hostel, the main entrance was actually locked, he rang the bell and told me to pay the pick up with another staffs, I asked if he was not coming in, he said no, so I knew I should really tip him. I mean the man came to pick me up at 4:30am in the morning, but I have no idea how much to tip. So, I just gave him the coins I got back from the airport parking booth, which is equivalent to about US$2. I don't know, am I a cheap ass? The pick up fee is like US$15 already, I think US$2 maybe ok.

I arrived at the hostel maybe around 5:30am, the girl said since there is people staying in the room I gonna stay the night before, I have to wait for them to check out before they can check me in. So, I have been sitting here in the TV room waiting for 3 hours already. Typed 4 blog entries. I don't mind the waiting really, but I do want some sleeps soon if possible. I'll talk more about the hotel after I stay here a day or two.

Butt Light

This little side story happened on the plane from Miami to Lima, just a few hours ago. The airline is LAN, they run services mainly connecting to South America. The flight itself was only 5 hours and 5 mins long. We were served an incredibly late dinner, provided that our flight didn't take off until almost midnight, I had some kind of beef with beans and mashed potato, it sucked be honest, but everything else about this airline are not bad at all. They have this so called IN-Flight entertainment center in front of each seat, there are 54 movies, over 100 CDs, 19 games, TV, Radio and other features for you to entertain yourself during this slightly over 5 hours journey. I would have watched the Angels And Demons movie if I wasn't that tired. After vaporized my dinner, I tried so hard to make myself to fall asleep. I wished to at least turn in a few hours of sleep, so I would not need to spend my first day in Lima sleeping. But it's hard, knowing that you are arriving just a few hours, there are a few things on the immigration form you have no idea what they are asking, and you are heading to a place that is completely new to you. Anyhow, after they switched off the main light, I took off my glasses, hanged it on my shirt under my chin, month opened, and I just dosed away. Maybe an hour later, I re-adjusted my position, my butt accidentally hit on the "ultra-sensitive" light button on the remote for the In-Flight Entertainment Center, my light went on, bright as hell, it brought back straight back to the dry aircraft from my la la land. And I was trying to switch the light off. I had already waken myself up, no intention to awaken others. I reached to the light, there was no button up on the ceiling, that's just great. I looked down at the remote on the side with my half asleep eyes. Holy shit, I couldn't barely look at the icons, which is which. I ended up trying all the button, but also worried that some loud radio might come on. So, I told myself to chill, and looked more clearly which button might be for the light. Voila...when Jesus said, may there be light, there is light. I operated the opposite direction. The light was finally off. But thanks to this incident, I got wide awake. (Now, I feel extremely tired and want a bed to just lay down, waiting at the hostel, when will my room be ready?)

Back to the flight, the staffs are young and handsome, I must say, very Peruvians looking, with dark hairs, clear dark brown eyes, and sharp features. They would speak Spanish to you first, but are happy to speak English if you don't understand. They speak rather well actually. The seat is comfortable enough, I am kind of to the skinny body frame myself, so the leg room is never a problem for me, if the flight is slightly longer, perhaps I would sleep much better.

One coincidence, sitting next to me is also a Chinese, she is a Taiwanese girl. For some reasons, her boyfriend was taking the AA flight arriving 30 minutes earlier, they are going to travel in Peru for 3 weeks. Maybe they couldn't get a seat together or something, the flight I was on was rather full. She spoke mandarin to me, and I answered in English. We really didn't talk that much.

Day 0 - Bon Voyage!

Sep 28, 5:35pm, my flight takes off from Chicago O'Hare airport, gate H11B. the gate was changed, I find out just a few minutes before the boarding begins. hurry to the gate, take a seat. My boarding number is 5, so it isn't my turn until 10-15 minutes later anyway. The flight isn't full, I have an aisle seat and the two seats next to me are empty. We start off a little bit bumpy, since the weather in Chicago isn't so great, cloudy and windy. A drink is offered, agua con ice, por favor. We watch the movie The Proposal in the 2 hours 30 minutes flight. It is ok, typical Sandra Bullock, Betty White is terrific though. (As I am typing this, I realize I need a dictionary or internet to check spell, since I can't spell, have I made any mistakes yet?)

Arrive at Miami Int'l airport at about 9pm (eastern time), my head is singing "...Miami is nice, so I say it twice, Miami is nice, Miami is nice..." from one of the Golden Girls episodes, Dorothea and Rose entered a song composition contest together. (My God...I must be completely poisoned by that show). Anyway, it's a pity that I can't quite see if Miami is all that nice, since it's already dark outside. The airport is quiet, I am surprised this airport is quite modern styled actually, the design I mean. Maybe this is a new terminal. I am kind of hungry after getting my flight from Chicago even though just before boarding, I have had a super tall Starbucks coffee and the banana nut cake Curt gave me at home. The cake is wonderful, thanks to Curt. :) I buy a caesar chicken sandwiches and a bottle of orange juice, for US$12.08. That's my last luxurious dinner (just kidding). One thing I notice, I have heard more Spanish than English here in Miami already. I guess I started to zone out from the English world and entering the Spanish world. Hopefully, I will be able to get around in Lima, and survive the first few days before I will start my Spanish class in Cuzco.

J18 is the gate I am waiting in Miami, a hour and half more to wait. Officially, this should really be the Day 0, since I am still within the US border, the flight will take off at 11:55pm. I will arrive in Lima at 4:30am. The hostel is supposed to pick me up. Now I only wish they will show up, otherwise... ha..ha.. it will be the first challenge I face in South America - to find another hostel in the middle of the night. This is just the 'ready for all occasion' me speaking. I am sure they would be there, since I just reconfirmed with them yesterday. They will hold a sign saying Benny Chan, and their hostel name Hitchhiker. Yes, a Hostel called hitchhiker, this is something I can't tell my mom, she will begin to worry, where I am heading to. :P Alrighty, hasta luego, my friends in America. It's my pleasure knowing you all. Thanks again for your friendships and tolerance to this somewhat wicked stubborn Chinese man.

More thoughts in Lima.