This Airbnb is on the 6th floor, and the street noises do come up at night and in the morning. I was awaken around 5:30am but managed to sleep a little more till 7ish. The apartment has a moka pot for guest to make coffee, I have never used a moka pot myself. Since I got some grounded coffee from the coffee farm in Guatape, I thought I would give it a try. Half way putting the coffee and water into the pot, I thought I better check a youtube video to make sure what I am doing is correct. I followed the video to boil some hot water for the lower compartment, fill up the coffee tray with grounded coffee, and then I put the pot back together and place on the stove in medium heat. I had the lid open to check, that is exactly what the youtube video did and there was no action. So, I turned up the heat, some sprinkles occurred like the water started boiling inside. However, while still no coffee coming out on the top compartment, water started leaking from the screw at the bottom. I thought I did not tighten it enough or I had too much water. So, I undid the whole thing while it was hot, and tried to dig that coffee tray out with a knife so that I could pour some water out. Oh my god, that was a mess, all over the countertop and the kitchen towel. Put everything back together, and here we go again. This time the coffee did come out on the top compartment, but water continued to leak at the bottom, this time the water was brown. So, I was continuously wrapping the leaked water off while the coffee was brewing. That coffee better tasted delish with all these hard work, I thought! And… it did not, it was a little more strong and acidic than I preferred, it did not taste bad, but not as good as I hoped for. Next time I will try with a little less grounded coffee.
Showered and got myself ready for the day. I took an Uber to Estación de la Sabana where I was going to buy the train ticket for tomorrow to visit the Cathedral de Sal. The Uber driver dropped me off a block earlier because there were many police everywhere, remember Uber was not exactly “legal” in Colombia. As I followed the map and walked to the station, turned out the whole lot was sealed by Police. So, I asked a police where the Sabana station is, he pointed me to the opposite direction what the map said. I tried, did not see nothing, came back and asked another police, now he pointed me back to the original direction I was heading. Turned out what they sealed off was the station. Right next to the blocked area, there was a tiny entrance to a glass room, look like a temporary office or some source, it was also occupied by police. But there was a woman just out front, explained to me this was the right place for the train ticket, we talked via google translate for like 5-10 mins or so, they always tried to give me so much information that got me confused. She ended up leading me into the station to get my ticket. The place had definitely been taken over by police, not sure why. I just felt so out of place, like I was in a police camp, what the hell is this Chinese guy is doing here. I got my ticket, and the woman reminded me to be there at 7:30am tomorrow, and I left.
That whole area were not particularly nice and clean, I would probably feel unsafe at night. Day time was ok, there was police everywhere anyway. Instead of calling another Uber, I just kept walking back to the commercial areas are about 20 mins away. I was glad I had the masks on, the urine smells on the streets were intoxicated. It was getting more crowded as I approached the commercial area. It was hands in the pockets moment! My next destination was a few record shops, they were all clustered together between two shopping complex within 7 mins from each other. I played it cool in the first store, I saw something I like but I did not get it. But I totally lost it at the 2nd store (MUSITECA), the shopkeepers were an old couple, they were very nice, I asked them if they have some classic rock colombiano, and they went to top of the shelves to pull a few records down. They are not cheap cheap but not that expensive neither. They kept pulling out other Colombian records and played at least 10-15 records whatever I like, it got me up in the air, now I wanted this, and I wanted that. Once the flood gate is open, I was out of control. After I had already selected like 5 or 6 items, I was like, really that is it, this is last one, don’t play no more, por favor. I was buying all kind of genres, something today, something classic, some folk, some hip hop, aside from one western music, I got all Latino music today.
As I stepped out of the store, that mixture of excitement and guilt enveloped me. My head said that is it. But my feet was heading to the other shopping complex where the other sets of stores are. I told myself, ok, let me just look, I am not buying anything. Look my ass. Now, I was in my 5th store of the day (Discos Vertigo), and I lost it one more time, this owner (he is muy calente too) was all excited as much as I do, for him, he saw this guy is buying everything, but I like to believe that he truly like the music that he recommended me, he played me a good number of records, I said, oh this one me gusta, that one me gusta also. Again at that magic number 5 or 6, I said that’s it, no mas. I need to carry them home. At least the first store let me used credit card, the second one did not, they pretty much cleared my wallet and I had to find a bank to take some cash after that. Oh my god, I think I may need to attention an AA for this addiction. In any case, I am now forbidden to be in another record shop again in this trip.
Speaking of records, as I walked around Bogota by myself today, I kind of liked this city. It is true that there are areas that I probably should avoid, but just the record shops alone made me like this city more than the others. The restaurants are also very good.
Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen
My next destination after the record shop was Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen – gothic church, at least google said they opened from 2-6pm. But when I got there, all doors were closed. I asked a guard next door, he said it is closed today. Oh well, I have tried. The exterior of this church is very beautiful. Inside is stunning in pictures I saw online. I will be back to the area on Thursday for lunch, will see if I can give it another shot. But I also need to visit Botero Museum, so very unlikely. Continued walking around streets after streets aimlessly, I ended up in Museo Santa Clara, here is another area where the whole place was sealed up by police, I asked the police at the gate “No visitar Museo Santa Clara”, he did not know what I was saying. I typed and translated. Now he got it, he talked to his boss, and they left me in the gated area to go to the museum, very bizarre, I have no idea what is going on in this town. Museo Santa Clara was very tiny, but it was also very ornate, it was used to be church but now a museum. As I left, I tried to walk to the other direction thinking maybe it was not blocked, but no, everywhere was sealed, so I ended up walking back to where the police let me in.
Wandering around Plaza de Bolívar, it has been such a beautiful day, all the buildings looked so amazing. I went back to the Airbnb after some coffee and pantry, admiring my records for a while. I have paid literally over a million dollar (well pesos) for them, they better give me a happy ending. I am sure they will…eventually. Around 7pm or so, there were suddenly some loud boom from the windows, there were fireworks coming from different directions, it must be for tomorrow’s holiday. I went down to grab dinner, and I noticed people were putting out lanterns and candles everywhere too, and the fireworks continued. It is actually called Noche de las Velitas (night of the candles), Carlos told me. Tomorrow is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. I studied in Catholic schools all my life, I don’t remember this holiday, or have no idea what this feast is all about. But the word “feast” sounds like a happy ending. Whatever it celebrates, hope it brings peace to the people. Tomorrow is also the birthday of my deceased mother. Wherever she is, hope she is in peace too.
Oh, and with Sergio’s help, I was able to make a COVID test appointment with Synlab at the airport on Friday 3pm. My flight is close to midnight, that means, I will spend a long time at the airport, but I rather do that than having any trouble returning to US. At least, there is no record stores at the airport, or I will be in big trouble.
All other photos from Day 13 are here.