Sunday, December 12, 2021

Sixteen Days in Colombia


To start reading from the preparation in 2020 (trip cancelled due to COVID)... HERE


To start reading from the preparation in 2021... HERE


To start reading from the beginning of the trip... HERE


By Day:

Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6, Day 7: Part 1, Part 2, Day 8, Day 9, Day 10: Part 1, Part 2, Day 11, Day 12, Day 13, Day 14, Day 15, Day 16


By Place:

- Bogota, Colombia | Posts 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 | Photos 12, 3, 4, 5


- Cartagena, Colombia | Posts 1, 2, 3 | Photos 1, 2, 3


- Guatape, Colombia | Posts 1, 2, 3 | Photos 1, 2 | Videos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 


- Medellin, Colombia | Posts 1, 2, 3, 4 | Photos 1, 2, 3, 4 | Videos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 


- Zipaquirá, Colombia | Post 1 | Photos 1, 2, 3 | Videos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 

Saturday, December 11, 2021

Day 16: Where It Started Where It Ends


A little over 2 weeks ago, I arrived in Bogota, times seem to have gone by so fast, my trip to Colombia has come to the last day already. Today is still full day in Bogota, because my return flight would take off until midnight. I really have no other plan, other than the 2nd COVID test I need to take at the airport. I really only am required one COVID test, but I am doing two just to be on the safe side. What confusing is that the requirement says one day prior to departure, does it count in hours or calendar day?! I do not want to mess this up.

 

Since I still have some Colombian pesos left, I thought I would indulge myself and go to one more record shop to use up the rest of pesos. Before that, I first took an Uber to Santuario Nuestra Señora del Carmen (the gothic church) to see if I have any luck getting in. Nope. The gate was half open when I arrived, but when I approached, the guard closed it. Bitch, I did not even the chance to ask in my incomplete Spanish sentences, he just gave me the “Bye Felicia!” at my face. Oh well, I am guessing this place is really not open for visitors. I walked to Cosmos Zapateria in the Centro district about 15 mins away. Zapateria actually means shoe shop, but interestingly, it also sells records, it was featured in this youtube video, this place played kind of any important role in the vinyl culture in Bogota, kind of an institution evidently. 

When I walked it, shoes were on both sides of the wall, plain leather shoes. In the middle, there were boxes and boxes of records on tables, they are priced at 5000 COP, 10000 COP, 20000 COP… and so on. I guess those were equivalent to our dollar bins. Nothing were interesting, so I asked them, “Todos aqui” and I was pointing the stairs behind their back, I was suspecting there were more in the back, and instead there was. They asked what kind of genres I was looking for. I said, Rock, Colombian, Soul, Reggae..etc. They said they do not have rock, but they do. Maybe to them, rock really refers to the hard rock kind. I saw lots of Pink Floyd, Bowie and stuff. They brought me to the 2nd level, where I spent a good amount of time (2.5 hours) that I only managed to go through one wall of records. I did not even checked out the Latino side. Just checked soul, jazz and pop stuff. Interestingly, there was also a bed in the 2nd floor, look like someone sleeps there at night. The records were not pried, so when the guy came up again, I asked him how much the records are. He kind of went through the stuff I picked so far, and say these are 20000 COP, these are 40000 COP, and the scratchy Prince record is 60000 COP. he really did not look at any of the vinyl condition themselves, just judged by the artists and albums. 

Nothing I bought were “expensive” expensive, all were between 20000 COP to 40000 COP (equivalent to 5 to 10 USD). I think the real expensive stuff were on the third floor, I was looking for James Brown, but I did not see any. Oh well, my mission had been accomplished anyway, to use up all my Colombian pesos. In fact, I used my covid test money as well and I ended up have to take another 200000 COP from ATM. 

I did not eat lunch after the record shop, who needs lunch if I got the records I like. It started to rain, downpour in fact, I hid under some thin roof with my jacket covering the records and called an Uber to go to the airport for the COVID test, the traffic was so bad. The Uber driver did not speak English but seemed like an honest guy, so I typed a message to show: “I am going to take the COVID test for traveling tonight, my appointment is at 3:10pm, can you wait for me and then take me back to the center, I can pay you 50000 COP for it, is that acceptable?” He said Si. Awesome! I just made a deal without a word of English. The COVID test went pretty quickly, I texted him back, he picked up and sent me to a shopping mall that I requested, that was the same shopping mall I watched Ghostbuster with Carlos on Day 3. I just needed a place to kill a few hours before heading for my flight, I figured I could eat, have my coffee and sit around in a shopping mall. I wait till 8pm, I picked up my backpack back at the Airbnb and then I finally headed to airport. 

The traffic in the evening was even worst. At the point, I already knew my flight was delayed for an hour. When I talked the Jetblue stuff at the check-in desk, they checked my COVID test result, I first showed them my PCR negative result from yesterday, he kind of looked at the date and time and had this iffy look on his face, probably he did not seem to like the fact that the test were done more than 24 hours from my departure time. So, I said I have another one, which was the antigen test that I took this afternoon, which was also negative. He was ok with that. I had to show them the attestation I have filled online for the US, the immigration form I filled online for Colombia, and my vaccine card to show that I was fully vaccinated. I was sweating like a pig at this point, because the backpack and records were so heavy. I had to change my shirts before boarding. I made to my flight at 1am (technically that is Day 17 already), and we were on my way back to the United States of America. 

This also concludes my 4th South America journey. Almost 2 years of COVID restrictions and obstacles, I have finally got back on the roads. For the most part, aside from wearing the masks the whole time, I have done exactly what I would have done in my previous trip. The COVID did not stop me from jumping off a cliff, or hiking into the jungle with a coffee farmer and a skinny tour guide without fully understood the consequences. I enjoyed those experiences. There is an adventurous side in me that from time to time, I need to do a trip like this, which revitalizes me, re-center my head, re-evaluate what is important in life. Now I can go back to my mundane work and daily life. Until next time.

Thursday, December 9, 2021

Day 15: Prudencia y Botero


This is my last 2nd day in Colombia in this trip. I got up quite early as usual. Waited for Carlos to be here and he took me to get my first COVID test at the testing site in Zona G called Gencell Pharma, I had a PCR test and the result is supposed to be returned by noon tomorrow. I have another appointment with Synlab at 3pm tomorrow at the airport for Antigen test as a backup in case the first test result did not get back on time or touch wood, I get a failed positive, so better have some backup plan. I am glad that it was all done now, and thanks particularly to Carlos (and Segrio) for helping me through this. With the language barrier, getting the COVID test arranged has not been easy for me.

We took a bus back to the Centro area where I had a reservation at Prudencia for lunch at 12:30pm. Interestingly, I learned about Prudencia back in the US, I think I read about it in a travel magazine when I was flying from Boston to Los Angeles or the other way around. I wrote down the name and said I would give it a try when I come to Bogota. So, I did. Last Sunday when I was in Medellin, I whatsapp'ed them to make a reservation, and started chatting to the owner Mario, I just happened to mention that I need to take a COVID test before returning back to US. He said they were also from the US, and planning to get back for the holiday. They understand because they need to do the exact same thing. He even introduced me to the party he is going to get COVID test. Even though I end up not taking his recommendation, instead I go with an US embassy listed ones just because I have no idea what is acceptable. Nonetheless, I was so appreciative for Mario’s generosity. He even helped me printed a document I needed for the COVID test. He really did not need to do that to a stranger. But he did. That says a lot of him as a person. 

 
 
 
 

As for the foods, they did not disappoint neither. It was an 8-course lunch set menu. Partly I really wanted to try this place, and partly I wanted to treat Carlos for his birthday as well as being a great friend who have showed me Bogota on his day off. Prudencia had a very peaceful ambient, we almost felt like being in a green house, the ceiling was kind of glass too, so it was very airy, had high ceiling, and was very bright. We were started off by an amuse-bouche of niçoise olives with sherry brandy cranberry relish, and the fresh baked country bread and home butter. It followed by cauliflower popcorn with spicy pecan and vegan queso, and wood-roasted/glazed butternut squash with morita chili, almond crème fraiche, and grilled bavette. The bavette dish was oh my god delicioso! Both dishes were quite small. At this point, they actually asked if you like to take a break or continue. We just continued. The next was the meat course, I had the beef short-rib, while Carlos had the Porchetta, both wood-grilled, with wood-fired mango and Chinkiang vinegar kê-tsiap. Both were quite good, but I liked Carlos’ choice more. Next was a vegetable dish - grilled romaine with duck-confit aioli. Last but not least were two dessert dishes: poached pear in a Riesling-rosemary syrup and cornmeal pound cake (darn, I forgot to take a picture of this) and a sweet potato cheesecake. Throughout the menu, they have suggestion for different wine pairing. I am not alcohol drinker while Carlos does not drink for lunch. So we just had the kid stuff. Just by the ingredients, they are all about building on flavors, combining different element and textures together. The ambient of the place and friendliness of the people are the cherries on top. All and all, it has been a very satisfying experience. But like Carlos said, most Colombians only have an hour for lunch, so this is probably not for the local but maybe for visitors like myself, or special occasions. In any case, thank you Mario and Meghan for a wonderful meal, truly.    

All other photos from Day 15 at Restaurante Prudencia are here.     

 
 
 

After our extended lunch, we stopped by the Botero Musuem which was only a few minutes away. Finally I got to see the fat Mona Lisa, as well as a lot of other works of Fernando Botero. I have become a big fan after this trip. Amazing museum yet again, and it is free too. I have gotten so many postcards for my wall art. Really did not want to say goodbye to Carlos, but we have to. It has been a great pleasure meeting Carlos and spending a few days sightseeing Bogota together. I am looking forward to do the same for him when he will come to the US someday. That is a promise. As for me, I need to go, I am eating way too much here, and is becoming the subject in Fernando Botero’s painting myself.      

All other photos from Day 15 at Botero Museum are here

Day 14: Train to the Salt Cathedral


Got up just before 6am, so I would not be late for my train ride. Today is a holiday, I was not sure if there are any Uber available, I may have to find a taxi if not. Luckily, there were some in the neighborhood. So far, it seems Uber is more available in Bogota than in Medellin. I got to the train station at 7:10am, at first I thought I might be one of the few who were doing this since when I tried to book online a few days ago, it looked like as if there were many seats available. However, people started coming one by one, group by group. I took some pictures at the station, had some café con leche and un empanada, then it was just waiting to board the train. It is good that I was just sitting near the actual train waiting, there were no announcement or anything, people just causally boarded the train around 8:15am or so, I followed and we left the station around 8:25am. 

 


The train ride was very pleasant and yet another different thing I have done in Colombia. I do have some fascination with trains. When I traveled Ecuador a couple years ago, as the usual me would do, I ventured to some tiny tiny little town where there was not a soul who understood what I was saying, and that is where I took La Trochita - the devil's nose train - up on the Andes, it was one of the coolest things I did. Truistren in Colombia, in comparison, was mostly running within the city and followed by just some farm fields up north, not much else, no big mountain, no big gouge, or anything like that. In fact, the town Zipaquirá where we are going is really only 26 miles (or 43 km) north of Bogota. With one extra stop we made, it took us like 1.5 hours. In a sense, that train was extremely slow. It is still good, something different, I have enjoyed the experience, and I was alone to look at the real daily life of people living in Bogota whether it was some poorer neighborhood where people were sleeping on the street not far from people burning trashes, or some nicer residential neighborhood where people just live their lives not much different than those in the US. We have lot of homeless problems in the US too, but we are very good ignoring it. It is a government problem that the officials need to deal with, no ours. But it is when you are in a foreign country, the homeless problem you see on the streets are 10 times, 100 times worse than those in the US, that is when your heart may ache a little. One thing I notice, this train must not be run very often, many people waved at the train, and shot videos of train coming back.   

 

Anyway, I believe I may be the only one who did not speak Spanish on the train, and they had so many things they tried to sell me, including the travel package to the salt cathedral, which I did want to get. For that, I do need to know the details, where to take the bus, what time we are coming back..etc. I relied heavily on simple phrase and single words… like for “what time do we come back?”, I would say “a que horas… regreso?” with a hand movement and on. When they say too many things at the same time in their reply, and I am totally lost, I would be just trying to get the information I need. I would try to just confirm the key information, I asked the girl “regreso, a las tres y media?” She said, “Tres y cuarto” (3:15pm). Great! Got it. And the bus to the salt cathedral is to the left after we get off the train. 

Train to Zipaquira Videos: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 

All other photos from Day 14 on and off the train are here.    


Redeeming ticket at the entrance of salt cathedral was another blind man walking into a shopping mall experience. It is a very touristy place, I was holding that pass, so at least people may point me to the right direction. I tended to choose to take to those people who looks like a guide, so they may have experience dealing with these blinded tourists like myself. I finally was able to talk to girl who spoke English, she gave me this self-guide audio player and pointed me to the entrance to the salt mine. She told me I could go in after the tour group in front of me went in. So I did. 

 
 

Choir Singing inside the Salt Cathedral Videos: 1, 2, 3 

At first, when this place was recommended to me, I had some reservation, the colorful lights shining on the cross, it sounded kind of cheesy. But actually when I started walking into the salt mine, underneath the sugar coating with the multi-color lighting, there was a very interesting story with this cathedral built inside a salt mine by the miners. I first walked past 14 stages of cross, the different presentations of the cross depicted the different stages Jesus carrying the cross in the bible story, how he fell 3 times, and different people he met along the way. What hit me the most was stage 4, where Jesus met his mother Mary. It was very peaceful presentation. I waited for all the people left and I stayed there to look at it for a while. Today is my mom’s birthday. Of all my siblings, I am the only one who always remember my mother’s birthday and would call and say Happy Birthday to her. I would remind my sister and brother to do so as well. Since she passed away last year, aside from the first two weeks, I did not really think too much of her until now. I touched the cross and said to Happy Birthday to her and wished her in peace. I could feel my heart trembled a little, emotion started coming up to the throat, so I better run. I did not need to make a scene.

 
 

Continued down to the salt mine, it was really deep and wide, I ended up in a dome which looks like a planetarium almost, and soon I arrived at the underground chapel, which was amazing, with the huge cross in the middle. Said to be the biggest underground. There were choir singing, potentially it was a mass, because it was around noon, and today is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. There were some people talking around me, so the sounds may not be as good. But I can imagine if it was quiet. The gospel singing would have been a religious experience down here. And back to the commercial chamber, further down the mine, there were so many emerald shops, gift shops, café, and theater to sell you stuff. So overall, I would say, this place is an half and half, some part of it was truly amazing and worth seeing, the other half was really quite cheesy and commercial. I am glad I came anyway and have enjoyed my visit.       

All other photos from Day 14 in the salt cathedral are here.     

 
 

Before catching the train back. I walked around this cutesy little town Zipaquirá, and have the best pork sandwiches and fries in this restaurant Labriego Zipaquirá, I forgot to take a picture of my foods, how dare I. Made it back to the train station just before 3pm and we were back to Bogota around 5:30pm, it started to get dark, and because it was a holiday, many shops were closed. As I walked back to the commercial area from the train stop, I was in my superfast pace, because I did not feel particularly safe. I made it and found my Uber back to Airbnb though. Two more days to go in this country!

All other photos from Day 14 in Zipaquirá are here