Saturday, April 19, 2014

Day 8: La Trochita (The Patagonian Express)

Before the crack of dawn, I already got up at 5:30am and got myself ready for the Patagonian Express, I had an early morning bus at 7am. Of course, I didn’t realize by taxi, it would only take me 5 mins to get there. I could have slept 30 mins more if I like to. Oh well, I was too excited anyway. I got to the bus terminal at 6:15am, moon was still shining from above, there were some passengers sleeping on the bunch, and some cleaning ladies were mopping the floors, otherwise the station was extremely quiet. This is my first semi-long distance bus in Argentina, the system is actually very similar to the bus system in Chile or Peru. I asked two people if I am at the right place just to be extra sure. Esquel is the town I am going today, it is about 4 hours bus ride south of Bariloche, passed by another town called El Bolson. The bus company is called Via Bariloche. A bus captain in the station was calling out a bunch of town names including Esquel, so I followed him, but when I got to the bus, it was a different company, or as I thought. I showed the captain my printed ticket, pointing at Via Bariloche logo, he explained that Via Bariloche is a big company, it includes multiple bus companies. He confirmed that that was the bus I was supposed to get on.


It was a “Comun” class bus, one of the cheaper class, not “Cama” or “Semi-Cama.” The latter two were the luxurious ones, with comfortable seats and mainly for long distance journeys. I will be taking a Cama bus to Buenos Aires tomorrow. Anyway, I did not expect Comun actually equipped with nice seats with lots of leg room too, and there are banos on the bus, and snacks are provided and movies are shown on the TV in the car. The 4 hours bus ride is like Boston to New York, a little shorter and seats are more comfortable here, cost AR$105 peso (US$12). We passed by some mountains and lakes, totally comparable than the scenery I saw the past 2 days. However, after we drove for about 30-40 mins, the bus stopped at the side of a small village, at first I thought it may be just one of the stops, and I started falling asleep. But a while later, some people were yelling something, and all the passengers were leaving the bus. A couple behind me told me I needed to go to another bus, because this one was no good. Turned out, we have been smelling gas in the bus, I thought maybe it was just temporary from the heater starting up. I was impressed that they have found a spare bus so quickly. Nonetheless, we must have wasted 20-30 mins for this incident.


Continued with the journey, all in all a beautiful ride from all sides. I followed the movies partially, dozed a little or looked outside the window otherwise. As we arrived the outskirt of Esquel, it was already 12:40pm, there was another incident. At the border before we entered Esquel, we were stopped by the border police, it seemed that each region or town here have their own border police checking cars once in a while, and this one was a serious one, the police got on board, and checked everyone ID. A second police with a dog got on the second level where I was as well. They checked my passport and gave me back. But they asked the guy sitting on the other side to go down after they were not pleased with his ID. They also asked the same from another girl. They went into the station, and came back after 15-20 mins to gather the rest of their stuff, we were still waiting. They also fetched the bus driver to give them the passenger list...etc. The captain went to the station for a while as well. I was getting anxious, because I was supposed to meet Jorge at the train station at 1:30pm. He would give me my train ticket there. And it was already past 1pm. I had not even have lunch. Anyway, a while later, the captain came back out, and started closing the luggage cabin, it seemed that we were leaving. The man and the girl stayed. Thanks god! That was freaky.


It was already 1:15pm when I got off the bus, I needed to find where the train station is. There was no map in the station, it is a small town, surrounded by beautiful mountains. I asked the captain, he seemed to say there is no train terminal, closed or it is in another town. It just cannot be. I specially wrote it down “La Trochita” in case they didn’t understand the way I said train station in Spanish. Anyway, he asked another local guy, he gave him the direction, and then he told me again. It was a 4-5 blocks away, I got there just in time. Jorge was in an orange baseball cap with a small Argentina flag on it. I was the only Asian man in the whole region, so it was easy to spot out. He greeted me in prefect English. I was kind of surprised. I asked if he is Argentinean and he is. Just during the old days, they studied English very early in age (kind of like the old Hong Kong) and also he run a B&B. So, I guess that’s probably why he spoke English so well. He gave me the ticket and walked me to the train, giving a mini tour if you will, we took a few photos with the train. He belongs to a La Trochita train association (kind like a fan club) and he even published a book about the train himself. I was amazed, I could not have been more lucky to have bumped into him on Tripadvisor.

Jorge is just a very nice gentleman, I could hear his passion about La Trochita, and he was sincerely happy to have helped me pre-booking the train ticket and so generous in sharing the knowledge he has about the train, the history of Esquel and the region. I asked him if he still goes on La Trochita once in a while, he said only for special occasions only like if his grandchildren are visiting...etc. Originally he was going to arrange a taxi for me to return to the train station after the first half of the train ride. I could not take the return train journey back because I must take a bus back to Bariloche at 4pm, if I took the train back, I would miss my bus. Unfortunately, he said he was not able to fetch a taxi, but he decided that he would pick me up himself from the other train station and drove me back to the Esquel bus terminal. I mean he really had no obligation to help me like that, I have really really appreciated his help today, it is more than words I can express my gratitude. Sometimes life is like that, some complete strangers may give you the most unexpected generosity. It is in that kind of moments you feel like world is so beautiful with these people around.


The train ride itself was simply amazing. I couldn’t have picked a more beautiful day to go on this train ride. The train is tiny, one of the last few narrow gauge trains remaining in the world. I was on seat 12 in cabin 762, kind of towards to back end of the train, so when the train turned, I could see the head train. Jorge told me that I was on the good side of the train with more open view, and my seat was in the middle of the cabin, there was an old furnace next to me. An older couple sat next to me, they were very kind too, and asked to take picture with me and for me. Everyone was just excited to be on La Trochita. I was not a train buff, but today I am. The conductor who came collecting the ticket, the people sitting by the side of a small hill watching the train go by and waving at us, the tour guide who specifically gave me an ipod and a headphone with English introduction about the train, the other passengers (the older couple and the younger couple across from them with a baby), and Jorge, all these I would remember for a long time. Only if I have more vacations, I would definitely stay in Esquel for a few days, other than the train, the national park nearby has some beautiful mountain ranges I could see from a distance, kind of remind me of a the Alps, they lined up like statues.


Yes... the bus rides have been long to just come for train. However, to me, I think it has been a truly wonderful day, it was more worth it than I could ever imagine. It reminded me why I love traveling so much, to explore and experience different things in the world in person with my own feet, hands, eyes, ears, noses and soul. There is an old Chinese proverb “讀萬卷書, 不如行萬里路 (Instead of reading a ten of thousands of books, one might rather walk a ten thousands miles of roads.) I feel that I have lived that line today. Now I can go home to finish reading Paul Theroux‘s “The Old Patagonian Express” to compare notes between his journey from Boston to Patagonia and mine. :)

Other photos from today: