Monday, October 12, 2009

Day 13 - Sunday spectacles, churches, museums



Going out to centro Cuzco after breakfast. The road is surprisingly quiet, in fact, there are parts of the road being blocked on the main avenue, and some high school students are making a painting on the ground. Not only one, every other streets, you see some road blocks and students working on the paintings. As we arrive near downtown, I am not sure where my minivan is detoured so I just get off earlier. As I walk toward the main plaza, I notice everything is decorated in purple and white. Not sure what the festival is, but definitely something is up today. As I pass by a small church, there are men and women in purple gowns with white ropes crowding on the streets, a matching band at the back by where I am, and further down I see an alter with a Jesus picture on it. Still not sure what it is about, I just run up and down the street to take picture, suddenly, thing begins to move, the matching band is playing, soon enough, I see that the Jesus altar is coming at me, I move backward a little, stand at the corner of a building. This is what I see: women flinging their holy smokes, while there must have 20 men or more carrying the alter on their shoulder and matching towards the streets with the ground painting I just walk by, as if it is a path to somewhere. Later, I show my house mom the picture I take, she is like, ah... it's a... (she said everything in Spanish, so I have no idea the exact name really, but it is indeed a Catholic thing). Whatever it is, it's quite unexpected.

As the alter and the crowds matching away, I resume my path and head to the main plaza, what do I know? Another spectacle is awaiting for me. Some military lining up by the flag pole, look like it is a raising flag ceremony. I am not sure if they do this every Sunday, but either way, I am glad that I catch it just in time. About 5 mins before the ceremony, I find myself a seat on the stairs. I intentionally sit by a western girl, she is either an European or American, so I ask if she speaks english and if she knows what is going on. Turn out she is from California, she is just travelling in Peru for a 2 weeks' holiday. This is her last day, and she is leaving in a few hours. She does not know what it is about either, but it looks like an interesting spectacle to watch. So, we just talk a little more (about me mostly) and then we watch the whole ceremony together. She even help me to take a picture of myself in the crowds, and in return, I share my can of altoids (some mints from the US) with her. Haha... She is kind of surprised by it. :) I don't think anyone would expect all the way in Peru, some chinese guy in the crowds would pull out some altoids to share with her. Little thing like that is so insignificant but at the same times kind of an interesting story to tell. In this ceremony, the most eye catching part is probably the kids who are matching along. They are in school, nurse, and military uniforms. They are so cute, I admit. Do check out the pictures on that.

Originally I am planning to do some museums hopping all day today. But after the two unexpected spectacles, my morning time is running out, so I just go home for lunch and continue in the afternoon, I visit the main Cathedral, which is probably the most decorated churches I have ever seen, with many MANY paintings, and the alter are in silver and gold. Among all the paintings, I find The Last Supper most interesting, at the dinning table seated Jesus and his disciples, the main course on the center of the table is a guinea pig - a delicacy in this region - upside down. I bought an expensive postcard on that. You can check out in today's photo gallery. There is a room filled with painting of many saints and all the archbisbops of this Cathedral. I don't know any of them, but that room is just like a room in Harry Potter, as if they are looking down at you, mumbling to each other. Another striking image I find in this Cathedral, there is a black Jesus on a cross.

The next is Museo de Historico Regional. One word to describe it - Boring! It is small and does not organize very well. Most of these museums and churches do not allow taking pictures too, even without flash is not allowed. How disappointing.

Last stop of the day is the original Temple of Sun but now Saint Domingo Church, ie, the church that is built on an Inka temple ruin. I get there at a "bad and good" time. Bad, because there are a big group of students touring the convent (it is more like a museum really), they are noisy and running around all over the place. Good, because the late afternoon sunlight shining on the rock, it gives a very good colors for photos. I think this church and the main Cathedral are both worth visiting. Again I have used my student card to get some discounts, for the Cathedral, student ticket costs about US$4, and the Sun Temple, about US$1.6. In US standard, these are nothing. That museum of regional history is included in the Boleto Turtistico, thanks God, so I don't need to pay extra for that stupid museum.

Inquire with some travel agencies, I want to find some half day tour to some Inka ruins in the Sacred Valley. By myself, it gonna be very expensive, like US$40. It will include the transportation and a guide, it gonna be a private tour. I actually want to DIY if I have some travel partners. To get there by bus is easy and cheap, but to get back, I am not sure how, probably take the same bus or taxi. The difficult part is that the bus would only take you to the main town, then you need to hike 4km to the ruins. And I am not sure how safe it is to do that by myself. Lonely Planet does not have a map either. So, let's see if I can convince someone to join me in school tomorrow. If not, I may do the private tour. Alternatively, if I can find another person to do the private tour with me, the cost will drop half. We'll see.

Photos here: Day 13 (Sunday Spectacles), Day 13 (Churches & Museums)

Footnote: Amanda just come back from Machu Picchu at 10:40pm. She looks really exhausted. I am getting kind of worried about my trekking tour now. She is not even doing the 2 day trekking, but just a train/bus and only hike for the last part to the Machu Picchu, if she is that exhausted, what would I be like after hiking for 2 days (7 hours the first day, 4 hours the second day)? I really need to turn some exercise in this week.