7:30am sharp, my bus takes off to Tacna from Arequipa. I am really satisfied with this bus company I use - Cruz del Sur. This is the 2nd long distance I have taken from them, the seat is comfortable, the bag are safe, there are number of movies to watch and snack box. Today we have watched that Vampire movie every teenager is going nut about that vampire guy (he looks pretty ugly to me, no idea what people like about him) and another movie by Nicolas Cage about the end of the world. There are also bingo on the bus, but the girl reads the number in Spanish too fast for me, so I have missed most of them and give up. The ride from Arequipa to Tacna turns out is passing through some bare landscapes - a desert. Yellow, red and white are all the colors I have seen during the whole ride. It's different from Sahara kind of desert, not as sandy, but more like just bare grounds. Once in a while, there are some oasis or pretty green areas in the middle of the desert. I am impressive thus far the way Peruvians do their vegetation, no matter how tricky a place it is, they have a way to grow something out of it.
Get to Tacna around 1:00pm, a lousy little town with things price doubled or even triple from the other part of Peru, because it is at the border with Chile. Chileans are the richest among the other South Americans. They come into the Tacna to shop now and then, so the local people are trying to grab the Chilean Pesos as much as they can, I guess. In some ways, Tacna is like Shenzhen (a Chinese city right next to Hong Kong, things are also more expensive compared to other Chinese cities just because it is close to Hong Kong). At the bus station, I grab a cab trying to get to the train station to get my ticket, turn out they are having lunch, so I ask the driver to take me to the main Plaza instead, which is really just 2 small blocks away. Since he seems to be helpful, I give him a little more than what we have agreed. But then, when he sees me paying more naturally, he dares to ask for a double, saying he takes me to the train station and then from train station to Plaza, that's 2 ride! It is a freaking small town, that 2 blocks are like 2 mins or less walking! I am like, no, no, no... just grab my bags off the car and leave. Feeling disappointed at the driver, thought I'd be nice to him because he seems to be helpful and give him some extra, turn out he is just another greedy bastard.
Have lunch, a so-so lunch costs as much as a good meal in Arequipa or Cuzco, their menu prices are comparable to that in Colca Canyon, while the quality is non-existence. I don't really mind paying more, in fact, but at least I wish there is some good foods presented to me. So, I feel like I am paying for something. A second down for this town. Get to the train station after lunch, another bad experience. This ticket guy obviously cheats me money, like I am dummy or something. The train ticket is only 7 Soles. I first give him a 10, but then I realize I have 7 (in exact change), so I ask him to give me back the 10 (want to keep the bank note as a souvenir, it's my last Peruvian Soles) and I'd give him the change. He takes my extra 7, but doesn't give me back the 10, instead of he gives me back a 3 after passing money into the drawer, he pretends that he have not taken the 7 at all! And he starts to speak a strings of Spanish to me when I argue with him. I know what he is saying, he says I give him a 10, and he gives me back a 3. That son of a bitch really pisses me off! But I cannot fight back because of the language and there is a line behind me. I end up taking the loss. It just pains me not being able to communicate in situation like this! Even though it is really only US$2 more in equivalent, but it's the principle that he breaks, Tacna really disappoints me a big time. Like people there are just greedy and wants to grab all your money if they can. Shameless! The whole time I am waiting for the train, I am like cursing this guy inside. He probably will get his karma someday.
I am the only foreigner on the ancient train. Apparently, most travelers choose to take taxi to cross border, or most travelers choose to go to Bolivia instead because it is much cheaper. Either way, the train ride is interesting, but bumpy, very bumpy for 2 hours. It gives me headache after carrying my heavy backpack all day long. The seats on the train are numbered, I am at seat 15, but then when I get on the train, it is a real mess, people just sit wherever they want, and they carry little package and lay everywhere. I end up sitting at the end of the train, which isn't a bad idea so I stay away from the crowds. Next to me is the ticket collector and another passenger. Maybe I fall asleep or something, I actually don't see a border, and before I know it, I arrive at Arica, Chile. The custom holds me for a bit longer since they are not sure whether I need a visa to enter Chile or not, so they call and check. Finally, "welcome to Arica, Chile" the officer tells me. The train is so simplistic, there is no waiting room, no ATM, toilet, tourist info, or just chair to sit down so I can turn on my laptop to check my hotel address. I mark a cross on my guide, I should have written the full address. I am hoping to find a money exchange or ATM so I can get some pesos for taxi. Without any Chilean money, I end up walking to the hotel with the guard at the station pointing out it only take 20 mins. It's getting dark though, so I walk much quicker than usual.
Get to the hostel, the room is far from satisfying, the worst room I have had thus far, the bathroom has no light, the room has patches everywhere, no air condition or fan, no ventilation, the air is stiffy, I can't open the window all night. The manager is friendly however. But what a day I thought. I reconsider... I can at least stay for tonight, I would change the hotel if I'd stay in this town for a few more days, or I just leave to the some tour tomorrow with my backpack. Go out to find my bank, travel agents and restaurant for dinner. Finally get some money at the bank, feel much more secure with local money on hand. A travel agent offers me a tour to the Atacama Desert (my original plan), I know it is much more expensive to join a tour here instead of going to the desert first to find tour there. But you know what, I only have less than 10 days in Chile mainland, I need to get something solid planned and get moving. Or I am just burning day light. I tell the agent I'd think about it tonight, actually I pretty much decide to join them tomorrow if there is no accident. They will find me a flight ticket to fly to Santiago right after the tour as well from the nearby town off the desert. Compared to my other option, to join a local tour to the Parque Nacional Lauca (near here) is about US$100 more. I mean, if just a $100 difference, I rather do the desert.
BTW, if I do the desert, I'll be offline for a few days, since the desert is pretty remote. One last note before I am falling asleep here, just a borderline away, Chile is 2 hours faster than Peru! So even though it's almost 1am here but my body is feeling 11:00pm. Either way, I have had a pretty rough day, gonna sleep on it. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better one.
Photos here: Day 38
