After an uninspiring breakfast at the hotel, I check out and throw myself back to concrete jungle with my backpack to look for the metro train. There are men on horses, matching bands following on the streets, I bet it is some kind of ceremony, so I take a few shots and then continue my way. The metro station is all in Spanish, but there is a young man looks like a university student come to me and ask me if I need helps. Great. So, I get my ticket to Universidad de Santiago where the bus terminal is located. The metro train is fast and clean, after all I grow up in a city, I find the metro train extremely convenient. At the bus terminal, have some difficulty explaining to the ticket lady that I do not know when my return journey will be yet. Apparently, it's common to buy return ticket together, it is cheaper or something like that. She tries to save me some money. But I don't know how to tell her I don't mind getting an one-way ticket if possible. At last, she finds another staff who speaks some English to talk to me. It is easy with him, he asks me if I want to keep my return ticket open. Yes. Conversation's over. The return ticket does not have date or seat yet, but I have it on my hand. I can use it whenever I want. The bus is scheduled every 15 mins anyway, it's not like it's gonna difficult to get back. The Chilean people so far gives me an impression that they are generally friendly and helpful people.
Journey to Valparaiso is smooth. But as we get closer to Valparaiso, there are some protesting on the street and block the traffic. Is the whole South America continent protesting all the time? I had that in Peru a lot, now in Chile too. We end up having to get off earlier before we can get to the bus terminal. I try to catch some local bus to my B&B, but there is no way I can distinguish which bus is which. So, I end up taking the local train which is much more expensive, because I need to buy a store value for that. Get out of the train stop, which is close enough to my B&B to walk, I thought anyway, Valparaiso has 60 some small hills, my B&B on the on Cerro Artilleria, that is quite a hike with my 19kg backpack. For a second, I feel like I am carrying a cross up on the hill under the midday sun for the sin I have committed. Find it finally... the Yellow House B&B where I will stay for 3 nights.
Martin is the host, he is an Australian who has married to a Chilean woman. They run this B&B for a number of years, I think. He is a very friendly fellow and gives me an impression that the first priority of his as a host is to make me feel like home. And he does. He shows me my room and the facilities in B&B, gives me an introduction and security advice about the city. My room is the highlight of the day, with a fantastic view. This ought to be the most beautiful view I ever have in a hotel room. I overlook the entire port and colorful houses along the bay up the hills. For the whole day, I can't seem to stop myself from taking another picture off my windows. The bed is comfortable, the coffee and tea tray, the chairs, the bathroom. I like it all. Can this be my room in Hong Kong?
Apart from the basic city and security guidance, Martin also gives me some recommendation for cheap and tasty restaurants to try. It is like almost 2:30pm when I go out and I just happen to walk pass one of the restaurants Martin recommended, called Porto Viejo. It is extremely crowded, with normal diners, and tons of protesters (Martin have told me that they are government employees, they have been on strike for a week already, that's why no one is picking up garbage). I have no idea what the menu is saying, which is a shame, because everything on the other table looks great. I ask if the girl can recommend some fish dishes. I have a fish cooked in tons of butter. She asks me if I want a big or small one, I intend to ask how big is big. But she thinks I want a big. Ok, big it is then. When my fish arrives at the table, "holy shit" almost comes off my mouth, that piece of filet is as long as my arm! And the side of fries is like enough for the whole family. I have a fanta to go with my meal. The guy who sits next to me asks me, "No wine?" I say No. The Chileans love wine, a few friends of mine comes to my head right away, they would enjoy Valparaiso very much. The fish actually tastes absolutely delicious. But the foods on the next tables catch my eyes even more, a big bowl of soup filled with seafoods and many big shells standing at the side of bowl, or the couple sitting next to me, they have this baked mussels or clams with cheese melted to golden brown on top. Oh my god. The guy next to me asks me if I want to try that eye catchy cheese melted clam or whatever it is. Inside, I really want a bite, but I am too full to eat anything else after I eat that arm-long filet and all the fries, beside I already put a mint in my mouth. So, I just thanks. I order from the gringo menu (for foreigner) and the bill is still under US$12. The menu set (standing outside the door) is like US$5-6. The food seems to be quite cheap here, and delicious!
After lunch, I hiked up another hill to visit the house of the famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. I read his books long time ago and enjoy his words very much. It's actually quite interesting to see his house, and learn more about his personality and lifestyle...etc. His house is absolutely beautiful and with brilliant views of the Valparaiso port and the colorful houses. In the self-guide tour audio tape, it has a line about the Pacific Ocean, probably read by himself, says... The Pacific Ocean is so big and so messy, they have nowhere to put it, so they leave it outside his windows. I can imagine how he would love to sit at his rocking chair by the window and words just grow in his head. I mean anyone would too.
Since I have a big lunch, not going to have dinner, just get a piece of pastry and some drinks. Go back to the B&B early, enjoy just looking at the view in my room. It does not get dark almost 9pm here, so it feels like the night is short and I have to go to sleep already.
Photos here: Day 43
