Sunday, November 8, 2009
Day 40: Atacama Desert Day 1 : Valle de la Luna
After an overnight bus, we are arrived at San Pedro de Atacama at 10:00pm, I did sleep on the bus, although it is a very comfortable bus, the position is always kind of weird, I mean, sleeping on a chair. And at 4am, we were suddenly waken up to get off the bus, with still being half asleep, in cold desert air, I was wondering what the hack is going on. Turn out we were at a control point, and it's the formal procedure for us to leave the bus with our luggage and all. I figure they would check our passport or scan our luggage. None of those, maybe 3-4 mins later, we are allowed to get back on the bus. Not so sure why we need to get out to begin with, if they are not really checking anything. Anyway, after the 4am incident, the bus was pretty much smooth.
First thing after getting in town, I check in my hotel, I need a shower badly, and brush my teeth. They served some snacks on the bus in the morning, but I am getting hungry already. 20 mins after I arrive at the hotel, I get my room, take a quick shower. The water is hot, thanks God. But in the desert, the water is very important, we are warned not to take long shower. People who have lived with me know long shower is like a religion to me. I love to stand under the hot water to think. But being considerate, I have taken a "literally" quick shower. Head out to a travel agent hoping to find a star-gazing tour. In the middle of this desert, there is a super advanced and huge telescope. It is some kind of astronomy project. Anyway, unfortunately tonight's tour is full. They have a tour for tomorrow 11pm, but the following day I'll need to wake up at 4am to go to El Tatio geysers. So, the star-gazing plan is off. I guess I can still go out to the backyard to look at stars tonight. Have a very good lunch, though expensive, it is like US$16 (after 10% tips, unlike Peru, tipping is a custom here in Chile). But that lunch in US or HK probably would cost more. It is a fine dinning lunch. Walk around the little town of San Pedro de Atacama which may takes 20 mins top, you see everything. Go back to hotel to rest a little.
The tour to Valle de la Luna starts at 4pm, it's a big group again. We are splitted into 2 groups, my group still has over 20 people. We are driven to the desert, see the different rock formations, sand dunes, hike some trails, and crawl some caves. Again my shoes are proven not for sands, the sands get in from the holes, and it becomes very heavy and uncomfortable to walk on. I may choose to not wear socks tomorrow, see if that is better. The highlight of today's tour is that we will get to the Moon Valley and see sunset. We arrive there, just in time to climb up the hilltop to see the sunset with 3 billions people who are already there. I move around to few different positions trying to see where might be the best place to see the sunset (from the back to the middle to the front). At the end, a French travel mate and I pick a spot up front, but then when the sun is setting, I don't feel anything. What is so special about it, I thought, until I turn around and start to walk back. The magical part is not the sunset itself, but the colors changing in the background, over the sand dunes, over the golden rock, over the volcano, there are pink, purples and yellow over them, the lighting becomes softer and softer, almost melancholy. I should have stayed at the first spot, where if I turn over, I would have seen the whole color changing over the valley. So, if anyone going to Moon Valley someday, try not to focus on the sunset itself, but the colors on the sky in the background above the volcano. It gets pretty windy, a jacket might be a good idea. And if you crawl the cave, bring a flashlight would save your head from hitting the rock a couple times.
Lunch is so big and expensive, to balance, I have a light dinner, just hamburger and a fanta (for CHP3200 after tips or US$6). That hamburger is very interesting, not only that it's huge, but it uses flat bread, with the burger meat of course, cheese, lots of tomato and onions. Hamburger in desert style, perhaps. It tastes delicious too. The restaurant name is Cafe Las Raices.
Tomorrow's tour to visit the altiplano lagoons. It's full day tour from 7am to 5pm. I better get some good rest tonight.
Photos here: Day 40